Drinks on the Mirador

Back door and stairs leading up to the mirador

No matter how hard you try to not have expectations, you just do. 


Take yesterday, for instance. Terry and I had already discussed it and we weren't going to have any expectations regarding the day. We wouldn't expect to get to the car rental return at any certain time, what time we would be drinking our bloody mary at the airport, what time we would board the plane, arrival in Cancun, catching the bus to the bus station, the next bus to Merida, arrival in Merida, nor walking to the house, nor walking through that glorious front door. 

Nope. None. Nada. No expectations. Well, I really did expect to get to the airport bar, sit down, and have a bloody mary. But, we got there at 6:46 am. I know that because it was 14 minutes before it was time to start serving alcohol. I wasn't expecting that. 

Have I mentioned I love Southwest?! We left exactly on time and arrived in Cancun at exactly on time. The sun was shining beautifully when we left HOU and we arrived at CUN with extremely cloudy skies just following heavy rain. We think it was the same front that came through TX last week. It made for rain and clouds but a very pleasant temperature.

The bus station was packed. Not sure if it was Semana Santa leftovers or just because we were at the Cancun bus station, but there were quite a few travelers in the waiting area and Terry had to stand in line for 14-23 minutes to get dos boletos. We actually chose to leave on a later bus just to have seats in what we consider a good location, ie, far enough from the head to not be able to smell when somebody opens the door. 

No rain when we arrived in Merida. It was cool and perfect. This is when we developed that expectation. Get to the house and look things over. Marvel at how clean the house is. Throw down our backpacks, kick off our shoes and have a nice, cold and relaxing drink. The refrigerator had been turned on and there was nothing in there but an ice cold six pak of Sol. And there was vodka for me. No expectations on the cold six-pak - we didn't remember leaving beer. Not in a list of expectations. There was only one thing missing. The key. 

The key to the back door was missing. Gone. Lost. Not to be found. And you need a key to get out the door and take those wonderful stairs up to the mirador. I have to say - we were expecting to have a nice, cold and relaxing drink up on the mirador. We did have the expected cold drinks but on the front porch. Drinks on the mirador manana - but we have no expectations. 

Funny Thing Happended on the Way to the Parque

The population of Mérida is about 970,000 which isn't small fry. Quite a change from El Campo. But to explain, El Campo is where we live when we aren't here. No, it isn't in Mexico. Yes, it is in the Estados Unidos. Confusing, huh? Anyway, in a city the size of Mérida one may think you could easily blend into the hustle and bustle of a large city and essentially get lost among the people. It isn't so. As with any big city, you have your quadrant of tierra that makes up your stomping grounds. Not having an automobile makes this even more so. Each smaller quadrant is marked by a park and a church. We are about nine blocks from the Gran Plaza and we walk by two parks and two churches along the shortest distance to get there. If we make a few turns along the way we will walk by three more churches and an additional church. 
We headed out taking the shortest route in search of the art store. We had been told it was moving and we were given the new location where it was to be relocated on our last trip. It was to be on the next block over. Shouldn't be hard to find at all. On our first attempt to find it we had failed. Somehow we had counted two blocks instead of one. I don't know why that was so hard for us to count. But, the good part was that we ran into Ernesto and had a nice chat right in front of the TEATRO ARMANDO MANZANERO. He was hanging out on the front steps as if he was waiting for the next performance. But, quite sure that wasn't the case. He asked about family and was excited to learn of his new sobrina, a reference to Baby Isla. He is now divorced but stays in frequent contact with his 16 year-old son and 10 year-old daughter that live about an hour out of the city. 
On Saturday, we hiked out again to find the art store. It was late in the day so we should have known better. But we were walking down our street just in front of the arches when we heard a familiar voice holler out: "Terry!...Terry!" We turned to look and there was Ernesto looking all kicked back, with his world traveler sprawl going on, as he sat in a horse-drawn buggy headed to Centro. He motioned for us to join him in the buggy. He was going to the theater in style, I presume. Of course, we see the buggies frequently and knew they came down our street on a regular basis. It's easy to hear them on the worn, brick street.  But we weren't expecting to see Ernesto riding in one and we didn't expect anybody to call us by name. We hopped aboard and enjoyed the ride to downtown. Of course, we paid for the ride. It was our first time to ride in a horse drawn buggy down here. 

As far as finding the art store, we did find it one block over from its original location. It was closed for the afternoon.

Comfort in the Lack of Changes

There always seems to be a process and routine when we arrive. We get off the ADO bus from the trip in from Cancun, and as we head to our hood we look around and comment on what has changed and what has stayed the same. It always stays pretty much the same, and we comment that it makes us immediately feel comfortable. 
We were, however, a little disappointed to walk to the house and see that Carlos and crew still had not received the dinero from our neighbor so that they could paint the dingy red, peelling paint house next door. Painting the house was something he wanted to do almost 2 years ago and of course, we wanted it painted as well. Oh well, there is always
mañana.
We were pleased to see that Casa Kahanek had very few spots of peeling paint caused by the rainy season and humidity. And the bright orange patio was still a bright orange patio. Harbor's tiny little blue handprints on the patio wall is a lasting memory of his early summer visit.
Y. had gotten Mari to clean the house and it was immaculate. I hauled a new set of sheets down here with us since linens are one item that is expensive down here. But, when I pulled back the quilt on our bed, I saw that I had brought sheets last visit. Oh well! Now I have two sets of brand new sheets for a doble bed.  
We made popcorn and drinks, sans ice, and headed to the mirador. That was the best we could do upon our arrival. Lights were out early around here.
This  morning we woke up early and stepped outside on our way to the grocery store. Remember the statement about painting the house mañana?!!! It is now painted a beautiful purplish blue. What the heck? When did they do that. They did it early in la
mañana! Still a little work to do after the albañil's work is dry and it can be painted...
mañana. 

The House Next Door

We have been here less than 24 hours and we know our tienda amigo is still around because he rode by on his bicycle and hollered at us. We have already met up with Carlos and chatted with him. We saw all the same older workers that sack groceries for tips at the grocery store. We've seen the older gentleman inside his door where he always sits and reads his newspaper. We saw the courtesy car guy at San Sebastian Park. We saw Julio's antique shop has been painted and was open this morning. We have seen some, but not all, of the city workers in the office next door, and the hawker at the Cancun airport that said he wasn't even going to try and get us a shuttle to the resort hotels because he said he remembered us and he knew we didn't go there. Hmmmm?! 
I don't know that I am getting that warm, comfortable feeling from that last one! 

Back at Casa Kahanek...Car belongs to city worker/not ours

PM for Puerto Moreles....or Panic Mode

Upstairs one bedroom apartment...at a reasonable amount of pesos

We reluctantly said hasta luego to the casa and walked the few blocks to the bus station with our backpacks. We caught a 7:40 bus out of Merida on Sunday for Playa del Carmen. Our plans were to transfer to one of the buses that travels the coast and stops in Puerto Moreles. We had actually made and paid for our reservation in PM ahead of time. Well, we bought our tickets to PM and in another 10 minutes we boarded...almost. The bus driver woouldn't let us board but he let other waiting passengers get on. Then, he explained to us: 
" El autobús no puede parar en Puerto Moreles porque de la lluvia y marea. El agua se pondrá en el maletero."
The bus cannot stop in Puerto Moreles because of the rain and high water. The water will get in the luggage compartment.

It had started raining hard between Tulum and Playa, and the wind and rain just kept coming. Looking out the bus window we saw water standing in many spot along the way. Being familiar with the bus stop in PM, we weren't surprised by this news at all. I think we kinda expected it. We asked for our refund and then sat and waited. Our hopes were that the rain would stop and the water would be able to run off and a later bus could stop there. Each time a bus pulled in, I would ask the driver if they could make the stop in Puerto Moreles and each time the answer was the same. We waited from 1300 to after 1600. We really didn't want to stay in Playa for the night...it just doesn't do anything for us. I talked to a taxi driver about the chances of a taxi getting us to PM. I was thinking if he could just get us to the high water spot where the road leads into PM, we could get a big truck or a policeman to drive us the rest of the way into town and to our final destination. I don't get worked up or go into panic mode often or easily, but I was really ready for something to go down. And I have to admit, Terry wasn't helping me on this one. He was silently thinking of something else...with all due respect, he had learned that his cousin was in the hospital with vibrio vulnificus contracted while fishing Pringle Lake. It was quite upsetting to hear. So he was left with his own thoughts. 

 The first taxi driver I spoke with wasn't too interested in taking us, so I waited and strategically looked at each taxi and taxi driver, waiting for the one that looked "just right" to me. Then, I went in for the kill. And I nailed this one. The taxi driver just answered "Si" to each question I had for him, which is common. They will always tell you 'yes'. But, we knew we had to make a run for it if we were going to get to PM at all on Sunday. First of all, I don't think the taxi driver had ever even been to PM. He acted like he didn't even know how to get there. But, both of us felt better when the taxi driver made his first of many signs of the cross as we passed by each alter along the way. Secondly, I used my cell phone and called the place where we are staying and the taxi driver spoke directly to them for alternate directions into PM to avoid the high water at the entrance, and further directions to the place. He stopped at least 4 times once we got into PM by another side entrance to ask for directions and how to avoid the high water over the streets. He was a jewel! He got us here safe and sound and that was when I gave him a big hug, kisses on each cheeks, and a generous tip! 

So, here we are in PM enjoying the sun....as we keep up with Tropical Storm Bill as he passed through the Yucatan Coast and is now training right over El Campo and over the Hallettsville ranchito.   

Our PM Digs  - 

We have taken long walks on the beach, spent afternoons sitting on the beach, rode bicycles through town, browsed around, and of course done our fair share of eating and drinking very well. 

Camarones Ajillo at one of our favorite places

 

Pescado Achiote

If You are the Aggie with a Mom Living in Placencia Please Say Howdy

While walking one morning we spotted this older model van parked in front of a house...it had an Aggie Mom sticker on the back window. What a trip that Aggie's mom took. I imagine she just said "screw it" one day and decided she didn't want to pay any more tuition and loaded up the van and hauled it to Placencia. Instead of a "howdy" she shouted out "Bye, Mon". 

The village of Placencia sits at the far southern tip of the peninsula. There is one road leading into and out of town. At some points you can throw a stone and hit the lagoon on one side or throw it the other way and hit the Caribbean. In town, they have done something really awesome. That is, they built a sidewalk that runs down the middle of town for pedestrians only. On one side are quaint little hotels, bars and houses that face the sea and the other side of the sidewalk has the same backing up to the businesses that face the actual road. We heard that an archbishop had retired to Placencia quite some years back and he complained about the hot sand so the sidewalk was built to keep the archbishop from burning his feet.

There are also a few side roads that lead down to private homes on canals, a school, peaceful and secluded condos, smaller resorts, and a super nice fishing camp.

The road into town ends at, well, the end. There are a few boat slips, boat docks, and a beautiful anchorage where boats rest in a very protected area. It is well-kept and clean.

The peninsula begins up north. Dangriga is the dropping off point. As you continue south from Dangriga you can either veer to the right and end up at Independence on the Mango River, or veer more to your left and end up on the one road leading into Placencia. So, Richie's Bus Service goes all the way down the peninsula to Placencia. The James Bus Service goes south from Dangriga to Independence and on south to Punta Gorda. If you take the James line, you then have to take the Hokey Pokey Water Taxi over to Placencia.

One afternoon we rented a golf cart from Cap'n Jak's (Lucky and ? from Austin, Tx) and went up north to look around. You go past the Maya Air and Tropic Air terminal and pass The Moorings boat docks and this is where all the newer development is taking place. This is also where the more exclusive resorts are being built. 

Before you cross the runway, look both ways!

I think it was also this day that we spotted the wookie balls on the menu of one of the restaurants...a tribute to the wookie-lar we all know and love. 

Somewhere along this trip we also went to listen to live music at the Pickled Parrot and were a little disillusioned at the not so nice group of complaining cruisers at the table we sat down at. Maybe that was why Terry gave that handshake where I swore I heard bones crack as the handshaking cruiser swore too.  But, we know better and won't let this small sampling of cruisers sway our opinion of the admiration we have for people that have the wookie balls to pull up stakes and go cruising.  

Pics around Placencia and up north in the Maya Beach area ----

Placencia School

Placencia School 

Hey U Wan Do C da Jungle?

Rayman acting like a Howler Monkey

Time gets away from us so quickly down here. Let's see...we fell in love with Placencia and so of course stayed longer than we originally planned. Each day we would go down to the front desk and ask if our room was available for another night and then we'd book it. We had decided when we could no longer have our room it would mean it was time to move on. So we were able to stay until last Thursday when a large group was expected at the hotel. 
Placencia was filled with exotic fruit trees, and snapper, conch and rum were plentiful. We met and talked at length with many locals who work hard to make a living and raise their families. We realized on several occasions just how small the village of Placencia really is - we started to see many of the same faces, could call them by name and then started learning their life's trials and tribulations. 

Placencia Soursop...makes excellent daiquiris

For example - 
On Wednesday night we talked at length with a gentleman that resembled Morgan Freeman. He spend part of his time in Belize, his native country, and the other part in New Jersey. We would see him on just about every walkabout around Placencia. He and his nephew, whom we met over cocktails, were building some houses on property where they already had a couple of very nice houses. The next morning we waited to get on the Richie's Bus we took back to Belize City and met a woman and her husband from New York. She had a Mexican mother and Black father and loved Hopkins, but her husband loved Placencia so they vacationed in Placencia first and were on their way to Hopkins before heading up to the Cayo District to visit her mother. They knew "Morgan Freeman" from New York and New Jersey as well as Placencia. When "Morgan Freeman" happened to drive by while all of us were waiting for Richie's to arrive, he waved and a big group of us waved back all thinking he was waving at them. We ALL knew him...including the woman sitting alone that the NY couple realized they knew from their original Belizean days...she was on her way back to New Jersey after getting a divorce from Morgan Freeman just two weeks prior!!! 
We bought beautiful wooden bowls hand-made by Tyrone. Tyrone and his wife were busy raising their two children and trying to figure out whether the cruise ship terminal out of Placencia was going to have a positive or a negative impact on their lives. It was a big and valid concern of theirs. They had been attending town hall meetings and their biggest concern was that they would be asked to "mass produce". They were adamant their craft of carving beautiful bowls and other things from wood could never be mass produced. They had a nice storefront that they were very pleased with. They explained the business started with Tyrone's dad who was an original carver and came to Placencia only on occasion to sell. Then they started setting up a table on a regular basis that grew into a 2-table business and so on until they built a storefront. Their 4-year old son became a favorite of ours and he loved coaxing us into playing soccer with him.
 

Through the mangroves

Hiking in the Jungle

There Really are several Howler Monkeys in this tree

We booked a trip with Rose one day to go up the Monkey River and see the jungle and it's wildlife. By land, Monkey River is quite a long drive from Placencia but by boat is was about 45 minutes south. Our captain was Kimoni and when we got to Monkey River we picked up Rayman as our jungle guide. There were only five of us on the boat so it was a relaxing and exciting trip through the open and rough water in the panga, then through the mangroves to the mouth of the river and the extremely small village of Monkey River. We heard about the earthquake that hit Monkey River hard back in 2009 along with seeing a crocodile, tarantulas, blue crab in their inland holes, teeny tiny bats on the trees, birds, and of course the awesome howler monkeys. I love monkeys! and could have been a Jane Goodall type in another life. It was only fitting that I spotted the first monkey, even before Rayman or Kimoni. :)
Rayman told us a lot about how they still use parts of the trees and native plants for medicinal purposes such as treating snake bites, ear aches and infections. We stopped in Monkey River and had lunch of snapper, rice and slaw before leaving to go find the manatees. 

Rayman working hard to crab it without getting pinched...

Out comes the blue crab!

Kimoni told us about the days when they had few tourists and they would take them out in hopes of spotting manatees because they knew if they could spot the manatees the tourists would give them a nice tip. Otherwise, it was an unpaid boat ride for the tourists. There were no licenses or regulations when tourism was in its infant stages. Again, he was concerned about the impact the influx of tourists from the cruise ships is going to have on Placencia. Interestingly, the manatees we encountered were just off the coast of Harvest Caye where they are building the huge cruise ship terminal.  He said there were "save the manatees" campaigns but the cruise ship business won out.
It was an awesome day in da jungle!
More on Placencia and the trip up the peninsula  to come!

Welcome to the World of Tyrone, Kendra, Plastic Man, Chino, High Times, and Clean Gas

We have easily picked up on the beat and fallen into the rhythm of Placencia. We get up early, drink coffee made in our room, get dressed, go for a long beach walk, come back and make/eat breakfast on the balcony, go to the market with our returnable Belikin bottles from the day before to buy another day's supply of Belikin, go to the beach while the beer chills in the frig, take a shower, lounge and read and blog and post, eat a light lunch, go for a walk around town, have afternoon cocktails by the water, take another shower, get dressed for dinner/drinks, have dinner, sit by the beach some more, come up to the room and sit on the balcony, then go to bed. 

Entrance to the hotel

View from our balcony

We have met Tyrone the wood carver, Kendra the hotel desk clerk, Plastic Man that makes beautiful bracelets from old plastic found on the beach, High Times will supply anything you want from boat tours to whatever. We have been on the look out for Chino who was recommended to us by Tyrone, and we have heard about Clean Gas but we have not met either as of yet. 
The harbor is beautiful and we have seen the sailboats anchored there, although I haven't taken pictures. The docks are immaculate and the anchorage is super tranquil. We have done our fair share of people watching and browsing the local Belizean art and colorful Guatemalan textiles. We like it here!
Placencia Village - 

These huge palms are everywhere...beautiful

Colorful Guatemalan textiles

Our room is up there